Do heat protectants work?

Are heat protectants necessary when you heat styling your hair? Do they really work? Are all heat protectants created equal? In this article we will discuss the science behind how heat protectant works, which heat protectant to select and how to apply it.

Are heat protectants necessary?

If you are heat styling your hair. Then absolutely. YES. Please. Thank you. Heat styling includes blow drying, straightening, curling. Styling tools range in temperature from 95°C– 235°C, depending on what setting you’ve opted for. When your hair heats up above 130°C, this is when damage begins. 

The damage can be a combination of:

• Hair color pigment change, especially if you have colored your hair
• The keratin proteins that give your hair it’s strength and elasticity will break down
• The hair cuticle (outer layer of your hair) will crack which means your hair will not be able to hold on to required moisture, causing your hair to be dry

How will a heat protectant help?

Heat protectants control how fast your hair heats up. It creates a barrier between your hair and the heat styling device so that the hair heats up gradually vs. abruptly. It also helps to distribute the heat on the hair shaft.

A study in March 2011 evaluated the effects of a pre-treatment (adding a heat protectant) when heat styling. It was proven that applying a product with VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, PEC and polyquaternium-55 provides thermal protection to your hair to help reduce hair breakage. They found that hair that was pretreated with a heat protectant was able to hold onto moisture better. Your hair’s ability to hold onto moisture is an indication of whether you have hair damage or not. Damaged hair releases its moisture.

What kind of heat protectant should you use?

The ingredients you should look for when selecting a heat protectant are:

• VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer
• polyquaternium-55
• polyelectrolyte complex of PVM/MA copolymer
• polyquaternium-28

We also recommend using a water-based heat protectant, not an oil-based one. Your hair needs to be coated in the heat protectant. Doing this with an oil-based heat protectant will simply make your hair look greasy.

Closing thoughts

Heat protectants are essential when heat styling your hair, but that doesn’t mean that you are absolved from any damage. Heat protectants can REDUCE the about of heat damage, not eliminate them. 

There are also many other tips that are essential when trying to protect your hair from heat damage. We have highlighted 7 essential tips which you can read about here 

References

Zhou, Y & Rigoletto, Ray & Koelmel, D & Zhang, Guojin & Gillece, Tim & Foltis, Linda & Moore, David & Qu, X & Sun, C. (2011). The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. Journal of cosmetic science. 62. 265-82.