How Black Hair is Still Policed Today

Dear Reader,

I’ve been meaning to write this for a while. Inspired by some social media comments here and there, boardroom conversations we’ve had with our audience, my personal experience and a recent strong reminder, I want to talk about the politics of hair. The politics of black women’s hair, to be precise.

It comes as no surprise that the governance of black women’s hair on and off our continent has somewhat become “fair play” for everyone to partake in. Where the burden of this governance is borne by the black woman alone. How did this happen? Before we answer that, let’s talk about what hair meant in African culture.

As far back as can be traced, hair was one of the important values of African culture, and I say “African” because it applied to every single African country on the continent. Styles and rituals around hair were a symbol of culture, background, wealth and class. How you wore your hair could be traced to your background.

When the slave trade began in the 15^th century one of the many things that were stripped away, was hair. Knowing that hair was important to the culture, Africans who were captured were forced to shave their heads as a way to humiliate them. African hair was referred to as dirty, unprofessional and “felt like pubic hair”. Stripping them of their hair, was one of the many strategies of stripping them of their identity and pride. When they arrived as slaves in America they resorted to using kitchen utensils, bacon grease and cornmeal to do their hair (if they even had access to that).

Much of this was repeated during colonialism as well. Missionary schools mandated that African children must shave their hair in order to attend school (by the way, the governance on black hair in school continues to this day). European colonizers clearly found African hair very undesirable and forced men and women alike to adopt “European standards” which included straightening, cutting, and covering their hair.

In the same way that hair was used to dehumanize Africans, hair was also one of the tools in the eventual rebellion. The Mau Mau fighters in Kenya grew out their hair into dreadlocks. Some say the name “dread” came from the dreaded feeling that the colonialists felt when they saw the hair, associating it with criminal activity, someone to watch out for. In fact, anyone who had dreadlocks were targeted, attacked and some killed

The Afro equally became a powerful political symbol of black pride, rejecting the mandate of conformity. Proudly wearing your hair natural, was a movement.

So where are we now? While we have removed the shackles, the judgement on African hair remains. And more concerning is the judgment of African hair that was created within our communities. It’s not just coming from external factors it’s coming from within our communities too.

About a year ago I held a workshop where we talked about this very topic. By the way, the audience participation was so intense that I barely could get a word in. They wanted to talk about this, they wanted to share their experiences. One experience was from a young lady who spoke about how, as punishment for doing something wrong in their household, you would get your head shaven. Her voice cracked, and there was pin drop silence in the room. That type of trauma never leaves you.

Can I tell you something else? I am shocked at how few salons I can send my child to. My child is mixed race. I have to select stylists very carefully. Ensuring that they don’t pull her hair, don’t braid it too tight, use gentle products. The majority hair type on our continent is curly/coily you would think it would be easier to find someone to care for your hair. Most hair stylists want you to blow dry your hair so it’s easier to deal with, or would prefer that you relax your hair so it’s easier to deal with. I know there are stylists out there who are phenomenal at what they do. But, there are equally too many who will look at your natural hair and roll their eyes.

I’ll be fair and say, there is a reason for this as well, history plays a part. Remember, our hair rituals were stripped from the continent and mainstream media didn’t represent hair types that weren’t sleek and straight. In many ways, we are re-learning how to take care of our hair. 

On the flip side you might be side eyed if you relax your hair claiming you’re ashamed of your identity. Working in corporate jobs makes you think about how you wear your hair so as not to bring “too much blackness” into the workplace.

The judgement on the black crown is intense from external and internal, whether chemically treated or natural, whether braided or locked, whether under a wig or not. It doesn't stop. *Pause to breath in…and breath out*.

If you’ve gotten this far, I have one ask of you. Let it stop with you. If you have children, nieces, nephews, grandchildren. Let it stop with you. I cannot explain how important it is to teach your child about their hair. Speaking positivity into their hair will have an intense impact on them. Understand that hair, face, body are the first things that people see when they see that child. Speak pride into it all.

We can't change the past, but it is our duty to ensure we help to change the narrative  for the future.

Thanks for reading this, and please feel free to write to me if you want to talk about this some more, natasha@pressedbeauty.com

Love,

Natasha